Fires onboard do happen, and statistically, they are most often linked to electrical faults – DC and AC systems, onboard wiring or shore power – as well as gas systems and engine or exhaust-related issues.

There are also unexpected cases; for example, sunlight focused through water trapped in a sprayhood’s transparent film can act like a magnifying glass and ignite nearby materials.

That said, electrical faults remain the most common cause of onboard fires.

What follows is a step-by-step repair of a teak deck and a bollard after a fire onboard a wooden motorboat.

With a good deal of luck, the fire did not affect the primary deck structure. The repair, therefore, focused on restoring the teak deck to its original state and “plank picture,” as well as replacing the burned bollard. The objective was to restore the deck “as it was” and seamlessly integrate the new teak into the existing pattern.

An oscillating multi-tool is something you will use in almost any boat repair. Whether you are cutting, trimming, shaping, sanding, or performing careful demolition, it provides precision and control with minimal collateral damage.

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For scarf joints, a commonly recommended rule is that the length of the joint should equal at least 5 × the plank width. A shorter joint reduces strength, while a longer one is better but often impractical. If your deck already has such joints, it makes sense to follow the same ratio for consistency.

If the deck substrate – in this case, plywood – is uneven, it can be corrected using a mix of epoxy, microballoons, and silica filler. Planks can be adjusted and held in place using small chocks cut from plywood.

Note that a bent teak plank stores significant energy, much like a bow. Always wear protective glasses and appropriate personal protective equipment.

There are different ways to approach a repair and the method depends on the specific situation. In this case, due to the small repair area, the need to integrate new teak into the existing pattern, and the relatively low curvature at the bow, the decision was made to repair in place rather than building a full section on a template.

Fitting planks from one end is significantly easier than fitting from both ends simultaneously.

Sometimes it makes sense to remove more of the old teak to create working space, improve accuracy and reduce stress in the plank during bending. In this instance, the frame around the anchor locker was partly burned. Even if it had survived, removing the old frame and building a new one would still have been the right decision.

When fixing planks with screws into epoxy, drill a proper pilot hole first and add a tip of polishing wax into the hole. Otherwise, once the epoxy cures and catches the screw, removing it without stripping the head becomes a gamble.

After the planks are securely glued, remove the temporary screws, drill clean, accurate holes, and install teak plugs. You can make plugs yourself with a plug cutter or buy them ready-made from a marine supply store. Making them on-site, though requiring a special instrument, might be the better decision, as you can cut plugs from the same piece of teak as the planks for a closer color palette and a more accurate appearance.

Before caulking and applying sealant, clean the joints of any epoxy residue using a scraper, sandpaper and a hot air gun, if needed.

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Proper sealant and the correct primer for the specific application are critical for long-term durability, adhesion, and watertightness.

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This repair is a mid-level complexity project requiring a certain level of woodworking, teak deck repair and project management skill. Professional advice is recommended.